I just recently added H011 to my denim vault. This is a very similar denim to the TCB 50s denim and is loomed at the same mill in Kojima. For my test run pair I went for a super hot long soak of the fabric before cutting and sewing. I wanted to flush out all the starch and then wear to experience how the denim behaves with this approach. I have since made a few pairs with this denim for some clients with my more traditional pre-soak methods so over time it will be interesting to learn how the super hot pre-soak vs a traditional soak change the fading and wear of the jeans. The denim is unique as it is a combination of a tighter weave for a Toyoda loomed and is made from a griege cotton with a slightly neppy weft. There are some runs of tate ochi on the rolls I have also so a few pairs will be more unique than others. The warp face is hairy and there is not much grin through of weft making the face pretty dark which is ideal for deepening fades over time.
In contrast to the 18.5 is the 17oz Natural Indigo. This one is also a left hand twill but this time the tension was eased all the way down for a low tension uneven organic handmade feel. Irregular textures and surface unevenness make for great quick fades when paired with a stiffer cotton woven denim. To really play on that this was woven 6 warp, 4 weft with a robust cotton which was natural indigo dipped multiple times to achieve a deep indigo dye but due to the amount of weft grin through because of the low tension, has an almost cobalt look to it. This is also loomstate (unsanforized) and un skewed and because it has that crispy hairy feel to it will fade easily where there is surface abrasion and secondary deeper inky fades when the creases breakdown before the rest of the areas. Finished off with a striking blue selvedge ID. This will not disappoint with its breaking in appeal and fade glory. The uneven weave will give you fantastic character and just might become your favourite pair in the lineup.
I wanted to have a heavyweight denim in my lineup, but every "stock" sample I saw was either missing some element I was looking for or was just pushing the limits on heavyweight just for the sake of it without any valid balance in the texture and overall feel. So I took all the ingredients I was looking for and had it made for hive. Most denim mills want to see an order of at least 3,000 yards / metres (unless your Roy Slaper or Mohsin Sajid) before they will take on a custom work which makes it practically impossible for small batch one man, one needle craftsman to get their hands on anything but the same stock fabrics that anyone else can get their hands on which is why I am so excited and lucky that the stars aligned for me early on in hive's cultivation by finding a true Japanese boutique mill that has the skill, looms and willingness to work with me by agreeing to supply me not just one but three unique custom milled denims in different weights.
My 18.5oz that has been skillfully crafted is truly awesome...It's a classic Osaka masterpiece. I wanted a heavyweight denim that would break in and form quickly while still allowing maximum comfort and fast serious fading at the same time (which is not easy to achieve) and I like my denims to have loads of character, texture and hand feel. This denim was woven on old Toyoda shuttle looms and sits at 18.5oz loom state (unsanforized) which will push it close to 20oz if / when pre-shrunk (it is intended to be made and worn raw / dry straight from loom to legs but I can preshrink before cutting if requested) It is made using Warp 6's, Weft 3's which means it was wound with 6 warp threads to 3 weft so the warp and weft are different thicknesses which adds to the irregularity of the denim and is quite difficult to weave especially given that super heavy yarns were used which is very difficult to weave anyway. Two different types of cotton were used (a regular pick Memphis and a recycled Long Staple which is left unbleached and grey in colour) so that we have a grey weft and it has been woven Left Hand Twill making the twill line more highlighted but at the same time allowing us to achieve the suppleness and hand feel while keeping the tension up. It was dipped multiple times so it has as a deep dark indigo face with barely any grin through of weft to allow for the fading potential. To top it off it has a white and gold selvedge ID (the gold to represent the liquid gold that runs straight out of the hive. It was really hard to make and in keeping with my true limited run rule we will not be doing another run of this same denim again so once it is gone it is gone for good. As you can see from the close up image of the weft the fade evolution of this denim is set to be amazing and this is the denim I will be using for our 2017 Denim World Championship entry. Peace, Love and Denim