This is one of those denims where you cant decide if you should make warp side out or weft side out. Another loomstate no longer made denim. This is a natural indigo cotton / hemp blend (80/20) with the weft side being dyed with persimmon tannin before weaving (Kakishibu). This denim has a very very unique weave and would have been very difficult and labour intensive to make and is one of the other factors that makes this denim special. The weft side actually looks slightly like a herringbone weave and some of the weft fibres were mixed in with indigo threads.