This is my 18.5 oz custom loom state (kibata) I had milled in Osaka on vintage G3 shuttle looms exclusively for me to work with and offer (more info in the library article). While this is listed as 18.5 oz, after pre shrinking it will firm up to roughly 19.5 oz. Natural indigo, left hand twill so it feels really comfortable, grey weft and a drop white and gold I.D this denim is made to fade in a big way! and has been featured in DWC fade contests and heddels fade of the day where there are some insane fade pics. https://www.heddels.com/2019/08/fade-day-hive-foundry-vato-custom-19-oz-6-months-1-soak/

My 2nd custom milled is also unsanforized / loomstate. This is a loose weave 17oz (also article in the library with more details). Tons of character and surface texture (tate ochi). Natural indigo, blue line selvedge I.D.

This batch has an awesome weft to it, the weight is great, not too heavy, not too light. Subtle slub and "tate ochi" characteristics and has an awesome hand feel due to the long staple cotton. This dye lot starts out as a blackish indigo then gives way to deep ocean and eventually a slight green cast and blues . It's a medium to start fading but you will be rewarded if you stick with it. Unique selvedge I.D. Kuroki Mills

This is a seriously dark denim due to the weave having hardly any weft showing through. It also has a unique neppy weft also. This will be a monster fader. Tight weave, classic red line, multiple dips of indigo.

Nihon Menpu Mills. Cross hatch texture, long staple cotton, LHT with a crisp white I.D

An organically textured cotton linen blend with a bright deep blue. This one has a neppy warp surface and a unique hand made look to it due to the unevenness of the linen fibres blended in. Sanforized.

This batch of White Oak was a tightly woven slightly neppy deep cobalt coloured woven with long staple cotton. Great fading capabilities!.

This one is a little special as it is a mix of Xinjiang cotton which is even softer than a Zimbabwe and also has been dip dyed in natural indigo plus has an unbleached natural brown weft. Natural indigos and softer denims tend to fade more slowly however the trade off is superior contrast and shades of blues paired with a super comfortable wearing jeans.

This is a dead-stock 14oz that I picked up in Osaka. It is a Zimbabwe cotton, has a subtle cross hatching and is a deep inky blue with an old school 1950’s style light pink I.D. I used this denim on the Gaucho Edition 001 and the wear in on this denim has beautiful character.

This is a really unique run of denim and although it is considered lightweight it has a ton of character due to its unique jagged warp weft weave and relatively loose tension which allows for the high % of weft showing through and breaking up the indigo warp fibres. Run this as is for a nice rotation to your wardrobe or even add in a Kakishibu overdye to make things truly unique

This is a hairy and ropey denim. It will weigh somewhere close to 16oz after pre-shrinking. It is also loomed by a small mill in Kojima. The weight and feel on this denim is amazing and is one of the most loved denims by my clients. Fade and wear evo on this is just drop gorgeous.

Great hand feel on this one. Slightly hairy and the Zimbabwe cotton makes this one not only break down quickly but also is super comfortable. It starts out crisp has a great I.D, the natural colored weft (no fake or gimmicky colors) makes a nice touch giving it an almost vintage oxidized look to it. This was dipped less times to allow the Natural weft color to play on the indigo look. There is some great loom chatter on these rolls too. Quick to fade

Hank dyed indigofera loom-state (unsanforized). This is 14.3oz before pre-shrinking so will be approx. between 15oz to 15.5oz post soaking. This is also a griege cotton which means it is undyed and untreated cotton and is from one of the small garage mills in Kojima Japan. Because it is hank dyed it will not give you the high contrast quick fades but because of the 100% indigofera the spectrum of blues you will get in this will be something special. (recommend shrinking fabric before cutting to avoid leg twist)

Super dark blackish / indigo face with a super tight weave and light brown weft. This will yield high contrast fades. Due to Xinjiang cotton blend this denim will also break in to a very soft denim after washing. Dual I.D (red on one side and white on the other) To get those high contrasts fades, wear unwashed / raw until the fades are where you want before soaking / washing.

This is an NOS (new old stock) dead stock (not made anymore) unsanforized at 14.25oz before pre-shrink. This is a sugar cane fibre / cotton blend then hank dyed vs. ring dyed and finished off with a green selvedge I.D. The indigo dye takes differently on the cotton vs. the sugarcane fibre causing the color spread and making this a really special neppy multi indigo denim.

Another NOS dead stock this time a Zimbabwe cotton unsanforized ink dyed black denim. The use of squid ink made this a stand out denim when it was milled back in 2004 and after fading reveals purplish, grey and brown- black hues depending on the light. A solid single red I.D finishes off this denim. Good black selvedge for me is hard to find. There is a lot of black selvedge out there but typiclly you will see the I.D get overdyed, broken or they are using sulphur in the dye lots. The way this stuff fades is what will make it stand out for years to come.

This is one of those denims where you cant decide if you should make warp side out or weft side out. Another loomstate no longer made denim. This is a natural indigo cotton / hemp blend (80/20) with the weft side being dyed with persimmon tannin before weaving (Kakishibu). This denim has a very very unique weave and would have been very difficult and labour intensive to make and is one of the other factors that makes this denim special. The weft side actually looks slightly like a herringbone weave and some of the weft fibres were mixed in with indigo threads.

Hairy, heavy, neppy, multi dyed indigo and green cast to give off different tones of blues. This denim is woven from American cotton and is a moderately quick fader. What you get as a trade off though is a ton of character and many different shades of greenish blue fades. Loosely woven and ropey it is rough and hairy when you first wear but due to that loose weave it molds and becomes comfortable very quickly. The weft is dyed beige and seeps through into the warp face due to the low tension weaving. The pink I.D just finishes this off. Your chance to get Oni’s secret denim but with the cut, details and my craftsmanship to really showcase this mythical denim.

So this is the Oni Aizumi denim and I only have enough for limited pairs then its gone for good. Rumored (by Oni) to be hand woven by an 800 year old grand master on a mythical loom belonging to buddha himself.. (yeahhh, no..) But it is a seriously rare and awesome denim that is deserving of some legendary status. It's a slubby rough textured 16oz which has been indigo dyed then top dyed with black ink for fantastic fades. This one has been rope-dyed and will look black at first but gradually reveal the layers of indigo. You can see how it has a blueish sheen to the black looking fabric in sunlight. The fabric looks and feels amazing. The many irregularities, the lose weave texture and the amazing color is truly unique in many ways.

Kuroki Mills did limited runs of this hand dyed weft stock. I have a red version of this also and made a pair of “Splits” ready to wear up in the store if you wanna check them out or see the insta posts. Order a split, this blue stock or check out the red version..The weft shows through on the outside when the indigo starts to fade making for some really epic technicolor fade evo

Kuroki Mills did limited runs of this had dyed weft stock. I have a blue version of this also and made a pair if “Splits” ready to wear up in the store if you wanna check them out or see the insta posts. Order a split,, this red stock or check out the blue version..The weft shows through on the outside when the indigo started to fade making for some really epic technicolor fade evo

This is an 18oz but due to the Zimbabwe cotton used it feels more like a 16oz. I call it the “carpet slub” because of the pretty extreme raised textured slubs and tate ochi “rainfall” weave of this fabric. I passed on the indigo version of this a few years back but the black / black is a thing of beauty and the fades are amazing as the black fades off to the white cotton underneath so you get some really different and unique 3D fades on this.

14oz Cotton blend with wool and a solid grey line selvedge. This is techniclly a canvas due to the weave but throws down a seriously unique pair of jeans!. A ton of tonal thread choices to play with on these too.

11oz Candiani natural heavyweight twill.

Awesome hand-feel and really substantial

11oz Japanese indigo ticking stripe

11oz Mt. Vernon Mills Canvas Duck

Great weave and dye shade with a beautiful hand feel

10oz Cone Mills White Oak dead stock salt & pepper canvas

The White Oak Mill made other great stuff beside Selvedge. This canvas was one of them

10oz indigo herringbone

9oz Organic cotton / hemp twill.

Awesome handful and a natural colour. (recommended on any denim below 13oz)